India Trip Report - Aman-i-Khas

Our flawless Aman-i-Khas experience actually began at the Imperial Hotel, where our batman (butler) was waiting to escort us to the New Delhi station for the 5 hr. train journey to Sawai Madhopur. He rode on the train with us, providing drinks and snacks along the way. We were seated in an air conditioned compartment with sleeper seats, and while the train could best be described as “a little dirty” we felt it held a certain charm, even after Mr. Ericka saw a mouse running across the floor. The train is a romantic way to travel, especially in India. The batman remained our main point of contact throughout our stay at the resort, arranging activities, serving meals, etc. The setting was drop dead gorgeous and because there were only 10 tents, they were able to deliver Aman-level service on steroids. Everyone knew us, not just our name, but “knew” us. What we liked, what we didn’t like, where we’re from, what we were doing that day…and there was a closeness and familiarity with the batmen and management that exceeded the other 8 or 9 Amans we have visited before. Service was proactive and they were always one step ahead of us. Unfortunately, most people only come in for 2 or 3 nights and that is simply not enough time to fully experience the park or this wonderful tented camp.

The property was truly “all tent” as there were no support walls as you might see at nearby Oberoi Vanyavilas or camps in Africa. Our air conditioned/heated tent was an amazing 6 meters high, and made to be brought down and packed away during the off season, much like the fanciful traveling tents of the Mughul dynasty. Rooms, several of them, were divided by heavy draped cotton partitions. We had a few visiting bugs, and one visiting squirrel, but no mosquitoes. At the time of our visit, the birds were extremely vocal throughout the property, especially at dawn and dusk. And one night, very late, a horse-sized blue bull antelope paced slowly back and forth along the outside of our tent and we rather embarrassingly called for security, thinking it was a crazy man. Doesn’t all good camping come with a story like that?

The Aman-i-Khas GM, Mr. G. was “poached” from Singita Tanzania and believes in setting up unique experiences for all the guests. He hired the best chefs from Delhi and the food shows it, especially the coriander and garlic naan. These were the best of our trip and we were able to watch them being cooked in a tandoor oven. The food was prepared for a European/American palette, which is, low on spice. But if you do like Mr. Ericka did and order it prepared “the way the chef’s mother would make it”, you won’t be disappointed. As with Amanbagh, many of the spices and vegetables came from the resort’s own garden and this showed in the food quality. Interesting side note, Aman is hosting a traditional Indian wedding for Mr. G. and his long-time girlfriend (and fellow mgr.) in Delhi in early April. Unfortunately, we were not able to meet her as she was in Delhi preparing for the wedding.

But enough about the resort. What everyone probably wants to know is “did we see tigers?” Absolutely. And we have the National Geographic-like photos to prove it. We went on 7 different game drives and saw 5 different tigers. 3 game drives had tigers and 4 did not. For this, we credit our excellent Aman-contracted guide who had great tracking skill and loads of insider information. Our jeeps were thoughtfully loaded with blankets (mornings were cold, even in March), water, chai, snacks, etc. and when we returned from the dusty evening game drives, our bathtub was filled with hot water and surrounded by candles. Before our trip, we were warned by fellow travelers that if we had been to Africa, we could never enjoy an Indian game park. This, for us, turned out to be completely false. If you have read The Jungle Book or seen the movie, then you know what Ranthambhore Park is all about; it was reportedly Kipling’s inspiration. The park is simply not given enough credit. It is strikingly beautiful, dotted with ancient fort remnants, temples and other “ruins”, as well as stunning topography of cliffs and lakes. We found it more beautiful than the game parks we experienced in Botswana and South Africa (except the Okavango Delta). Of course, the park is “managed” differently. At our tiger sightings, we encountered 1-6 other vehicles, some of which were buses/cantors, and the guides were not permitted to go off track or leave their lottery-assigned trail. But a guide as good as ours was able to overcome these factors by jockeying for position, and anticipating the tigers’ movements and getting out in front them. At the time of our visit, there were 5 trails. We experienced 2, 3, 4 and 5, and each offered something special. Non-tiger sightings included; peacocks, rose winged parakeet, rose headed parakeet, jungle babbler, great egret, black cormorant, spotted deer, wooly necked stork, coucal, black winged stilt, red wattled lapwing, crocodile, black faced langur, red shank, Eurasian spoonbill, partridge, black drungo, oriental honey buzzard, grey heron, Indian river tern, painted stork, white ibis, ruddy shelled duck, sambar deer, magpie robin, yellow footed green pigeon, common myna, white throated kingfisher, yellow wagtail, pied wagtail, little ringed plover, Indian treepie, wild boar, blue bull antelope, red vented bulbul, coot, mongoose, black stork, black shouldered kite, magpie robin, guinea hen, jackal, white bellied drungo, jungle prinea, grey tit, spotted owlet, tickell’s blue flycatcher, fantailed flycatcher, green bee eater, purple sunbird, long billed jungle crow, Eurasian kingfisher, common mongoose (white = rare), Indian gazelle, crow pheasant, jungle bush quail, collared scops owl, pond heron, rhesus macaque, stilt, little cormorant, snake bird, turtle, vultures.

Besides Ranthambhore Park, we were able to enjoy other activities while at Aman-i-Khas. We had some great spa treatments in the “spa tent”. We visited the local Dastkar shop, a women’s cooperative which uses craft and clothing production to rebuild the communities that were uprooted with the creation of the national park. At Dastkar, we purchased clothing and donated money to support local initiatives in education, family planning, and healthcare. Back at the resort, we were treated to a romantic torch-lit bush dinner under the stars and Mr. G. even arranged a private maharaja dinner for us by the stepwell (pool) which featured easily 50 candles and local Rajasthani music performers. We toured the 1000 year old Ranthambhore Fort and enjoyed a private brunch served in the ruined “honeymoon suite” where the maharaja would entertain his wive(s) and invite friends and family to use it for trysts. This spot overlooks the prettiest parts of Ranthambhore Park and guests often spot tigers from here. Lastly, Mr. G. took us to meet the rescued 5 month old leopard cub, Lakshmi that he is rehabilitating to release back into the wild. He has done this successfully with lions in South Africa. Lakshmi is learning how to hunt mice and chickens and certainly has a taste for the meat, but unfortunately she hasn’t yet grasped the concept of “kill” and the experience of her beginning to eat the animals that weren’t yet dead, well, that was a bit much for me.