Sweet rest, balm for body and soul — one of a kind

This was my fourth stay at Las Alamandas and I was enchanted all over again. I traveled with good friends who live near me in the Bay Area. They are old Mexico hands and accustomed to staying much longer than our five-night sojourn. The setting here is magnificent on some three thousand acres, four beaches, a large river, and cliffs over the water. Only 18 units so there never is a crush and, most often, there are no other guests to see. On this trip we saw a lone yoga practitioner and an enthusiastic couple boogie boarding. We were delighted to meet and chat with the owner, Isabelle Patino Goldsmith, at dinner one evening. And, lucky since she was heading to London the next day.

Checkin is accomplished in the suite, and is swift. There really is no checkout, one simple leaves, regretfully. 

We had the presidential suite and Playa suite in the largest villa. Two hot tubs, private pool, two hammocks, beachfront. Waves building and crashing ashore all the day and night long, aiding best sleep imaginable. This is the only suite with Wi-Fi (although it's glitchy) so it is the only unit I will book. Flowers throughout the suites, twice-daily housekeeping, gargantuan dual-head walk-in showers, enormous tubs, dual sinks, tons of storage place. Enormous, comfortably appointed shaded terraces. All set in beautiful gardens.

Service is readily available, prompt, responsive and kind. We were impressed and grateful. We booked a river outing on the house launch on Rio Nicholas. We were picked up and driven to the river, then boated around for over an hour. It was a great excursion, fresh breezes, gorgeous light, many and many different birds but no bugs. Otherwise we did little more than laze around, walk the beach, poke around the property. All guests are given a driving tour of the property which takes a little over an hour and is fascinating. Had a great 90-minute massage.

Breakfast was varied and delicious, we ate it on the terrace. Had snacks around 4pm, then dinner around 8pm. Dinners were good but not much variation in menu options. The restaurant is lovely in the evening light as the setting sun paints the skies and hills. Food is the one weakness here. It's good but only that and a venue of this sort at theses costs should deliver higher quality and more choices. We asked for, and we're given after much cajoling, a dinner of humongous oysters on the half shell and grilled longostas. Wonderful, but we had to work for it since it was never clear whether the seafood could be sourced or not. Given the location, seafood options are mysteriously narrow, usually limited to red snapper and shrimp.

A very special place on the ocean with four beaches, gardens, flowers, charming Mexican architecture. It is 2.5 hours by car south of the Puerto Vallarta airport. Transportation is best arranged through the property. Do NOT recommend driving yourself. Las Alamandas is some 10 miles or so west of the highway on VERY rough dirt roads.

A happy place for me. Will return this year. There is no nightlife here so if that's important, hie thyself elsewhere. What is present in abundance is the tang sea air, sussuration of waves, birds galore, peace, harmony and glorious relaxation.